Our Love Hate Relationship

I feel free! My first thoughts when Brandon and I hit the open roads of this small yet adventure packed country. We had a full two months to explore the area, in our BRAND NEW (ly used) 1993 Mazda Bango camper van.

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New Zealand has been on our radar since before we started traveling. We always imagined ourselves buying a camper van, and using that to work our way around the country. Upon arriving we didn't know where to begin. We had never purchased a car in the States, let alone a different country. So the search began.

We named her "The Juicebox."

The very first van we looked at we purchased after one quick test drive around Queenstown. We were off without a care in the world. Best to not waste time looking right? We knew we got a deal. A perfect set up with a beautifully organized kitchen containing everything we need to cook, small compartments for our clothes, a large compartment for our backpacks and boots just beneath the bed, and a long shelf behind the front seats for easy access to important things like our camera, thermos, and books. It has hooks to hang our hats on, a table that can be set up for dinner or playing cards, and curtains on all windows for evening privacy. We bought christmas lights and some decorations, and transformed it into our new home. We were loaded, and ready for the road ahead of us- tramping, snorkeling, sightseeing, rafting, simply adventuring, that's what we do best.

Our first few days on the road we were hooked. While it didn't drive fast, we weren't in a hurry, in fact it was nice to slow down... wayyyyy down. We keep her at a constant 60 km per hour and we've detoured a few mountain passes, just in case we wouldn't make it up. But she was ours, our first car purchase, our first home purchase.

We headed to the southern part of NZ to start our first trek. Enjoying the drive and making numerous stops along the way; it was our first taste of what life would be like for the next two months. We camped near the trailhead and a trout filled river and meandered on the riverbed until dark, throwing a few flies, and gazing at the dynamic mountains.

Episode 1:
After 4 days on the trail we were ready for a hot shower and some home cooked burgers. We unload our backpacks and threw out trash, hung up wet clothes, and tried to make space for a fellow hiker that needed a lift. With everything loaded, all three of us hop into the van. Click. Click. Battery dead. Did we leave the lights on? Maybe a door open? Meanwhile our hitchhiker is asking, how long we've had the van, and if we took it into the shop before we purchased it. Not helping I think to myself; the questions continue.

It only took about 20 minutes before our first Juicebox angel showed up at the trailhead to save us. Failing to be equipped with jumper cables, our angel pulls some out of his back seat, hooks up the batteries, and gets the van to turn over. Two more times our battery died after leaving it for more than a day, and both times we were rescued. Time for a new battery

Episode 2:
Christmas Eve we arrive to the city of Dunedin. Splurging on a Bed and Breakfast for a relaxing Christmas in (and of course wifi, and a tv) we pull into the local hardware store to buy a new battery. This has to solve the problems. We chat with one of the salesmen, and he recommends bringing it to an auto mechanic before we simply purchase the battery. It may just be something different he tells us. Instead we make a quick purchase of jumper cables, and head back to the van in hopes of finding a shop. The car turns on and immediately a harsh buzzing sound screams from the engine. Panic sets in and we evacuate. Brandon turns the van off and yet the sound continues. I run across the street to an auto shop, Brandon keeping watch to ensure there's no explosion, fire extinguisher in hand. Auto shop closed.

Next door I see someone closing up an oil change shop. He listens to my story, and exclaims "Shops'll all be closed now, don't open back up until the 4th of January for holiday." (That's 10 days!) Desperate for help, I frantically explain that I can't wait that long, my van is my home, and I'm stranded in a hardware store in the middle of the city! Another worker comes over and offers to drive me to a shop. I hop in the mini cooper and he speeds to as many repair shops as he can find. All closed. We drive back to the van, and he takes a quick glance at it. The sound now thankfully has stopped and the man uses some device and determines it's not the battery after all, but the starter. Nothing he can do unfortunately but at least we have some idea of what's going on. We say thank you for his help and he disappears. Both of us in shock by the generosity of the Kiwis on Christmas Eve of all days.

Not more than 15 minutes later he shows back up and announces his friend Scott is on his way with a tow truck to fix the car. He called around, found a used starter, and it will be fixed tonight-- Juicebox angel #2.

Episode 3:
With a new starter and a battery that is now fully charged we head to the market to load up on Champaign, cheese, and Christmas goodies. It is time to celebrate. The dead battery mystery has been solved, and the Juicebox is running. Full of groceries, and on a high from our luck, we get back in the van and turn the key. The engine starts up. Brandon reaches for the gear stick to reverse out of our spot, and nothing happens, we're now stuck in park. 7pm on Christmas Eve.

We call Grant (another worker from the auto mechanic shop) and ask him what we should do. "I'm on my way," he replies. Within 30 minutes Grant rips apart our gear box and begins an evaluation. He checks fuses, wires, and too many other things that I can't even begin to describe. He finally determines we have an electrical problem, yet again, a problem, and shows us how to manually get in and out of park. Wondering what the bill for this will be as we've taken over an hour of his time, he stays to chat for a bit and finally says Merry Christmas and walks away- Juicebox angel #3.

Episode 4/5:
Ever run out of gas? We have, twice. The first time I'd like to think it wasn't our fault as we had just enough gas to make it to the closest station. After touring around an area called the Catlins for the few days following Christmas, it was time to fuel up and head to our next location. We arrive at the small town station just before we run out of gas, grab an ice cream cone, and see the dreaded sign.. Closed for the holiday. Of course it is. We get back in the car and hope to make it the additional 10 miles to the closest town with gas. Slowly our car comes to a halt as we run out of gas just under three miles from our destination. Still enjoying my enormous ice cream cone, I chuck it in the grass, get out of the car and throw out our thumbs. Sure enough two cars stop almost simultaneously. The first, a group of Chinese tourists, who don't have room in their car but nearly step out in the middle of the road to stop traffic for us. The second car, and our fourth juicebox angel had one liter of gas with him. He pours it in our tank, our van barely turns over and he follows us to the station just to be sure the liter would be sufficient.
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Despite the many unfortunate events we've had with the Juicebox, the pros by far outweigh the cons. My day always starts with a strong french press delivered in bed as Brandon wakes up just before me and prepares it. I set up the van for the day by taking down the planks that the mattresses lay on, and putting together the table. We make eggs and hash browns, or pancakes, or nutella and banana toast for breakfast, and we take off for the day to find the next adventure. The best part is we are never at the mercy of a bus schedule anymore; we stop and go as we please and we've trekked nearly 200 kilometers since we've arrived. And last night we pulled off the road just as the sun was setting, and watched as the tiny penguins waddled their way onto shore. Such surprises around every corner.
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As for "The Juicebox" to be determined if she will make it through these next few weeks. Fingers crossed.

An Epic Catch

You're gonna catch a fish here..

Brandon's words to me after we spotted a huge trout sucking bugs in the pool below. We had stopped for lunch by a river gorge with the most beautiful turquoise water and standing pools that looked atleast 30 feet deep. I watched as the fish darted side to side for food and then reposition itself with every bite. We were maybe 15 feet up on a cliff, there was no way I could land this fish, even if I did hook it. "We'll figure that out later" Brandon said to me. A little apprehensive I lay my cast maybe 10 feet ahead of the fish's nose and let it drift, careful not to spook it. Nothing. Again I try, but unsuccessful. I pull my line up and change the bug while I myself am getting eaten alive by sandflies, a small black bug that leave a welt the size of a pin head but itches over the course of two weeks and then turns to a scar (I never did learn to not scratch). Once again I throw my line in front of the fish and let it drift, but this time the fish darts to the side, and I see his mouth open as he takes my nymph. I set the hook, and smash my foot behind a branch hoping I don't lose my balance. The fight is on for the biggest fish of my life. All I can think to myself is please don't lose this fish.

Ten minutes go by and I'm still high on the gorge cliff, playing the fish as he shoots deep into the pool. I feel brandon behind me brush an army of sandflies off me, I'm definitely loosing that battle right now, but I don't care, I'll deal with the welts later. I finally tire the fish, and Brandon has been gone for a while now, searching for a way down to the water. With a little team work and a lot of luck, we make our way down to the waters edge, I could've sworn that was a gift from god. How on earth did we find our way down here?! With adrenaline pumping through my body I'm on hyper mode and I can't stop shaking, we nearly fall into the river, camera, rod and all, and I still haven't pulled out my fish. I take a breath calm my nerves, and reach for the fish, got him! SHIT the rod! Down in the water it goes. The colorful rainbow stares at me bug eyed, still stunned by the battle. I recompose, salvage the rod, and pose for a few pictures before releasing the beautiful beast back to his waters.

Bolivia- Via Uyuni Salt Flats, Moments Captured

Train Graveyard

Tree rock

FlashpackerConnect offers customizable and set itinerary trips, check out the adventures here.

How Not to Enter Bolivia

In our experience of traveling thus far, we have had very few problems with boarder crossings. Whether we fly in or enter via bus, Americans typically get in with out fuss. Bolivia was another story. Being unprepared for our upcoming "adventure" we hop on to our bus from Peru to Bolivia, making sure we were of course with a reputable company that would't rob us or take us somewhere we didn't want to go (yes that happens). After a one hour ride on a somewhat smooth but windy road we approach the area to stamp out of Peru. Piece of cake. I show my passport, give the officer a smile and I'm out in a flash. Now all I need to do is walk the half mile to the Bolivian boarder and get stamped in. I hurl my bag over my shoulders and take off on the road lined with stalls selling trinkets and souvenirs, and a lot of food. Brandon and I stop and grab a bite to eat just as we step into Bolivia as we were so excited to try some new Bolivian cuisine. This was the first and unfortunately not the last time we ate Bolivian street food; enter food poisoning..

Joining the line to get stamped in we are approached by an officer that asked if we were Americans. "Yes" we reply sheepishly unsure of why that matters. He pulls us out of line and tells us to wait in the corner. We do as told and wait for the next 20 minutes. After no one new approaches us, we go to find help. Thankfully we see some other Americans who were just stamped in, indicating to us the numerous documents they showed the immigrations officer, my eyes grow wide as I realize we have none of these.

We get back in line and are pulled out again, this time put in a new line where other Americans were just finishing the process. It's now my turn and I cowardly step up to the officer and give the best "Hola, Como esta!" I can. He takes my passport, unamused and asks for my documents (onward flight ticket, hotel reservation, copy of passport, copy of yellow fever vaccination...). I pull out my phone with an old hotel reservation on it hoping he won't notice, but he won't even give it a glance. "Must be printed" strike one, I think to myself. "Ticket for onward flight" he states, again looking for additional documentation. I try to explain (in Spanish) that I'm not leaving the country via plane, which is why I don't have an onward ticket. He scours at me "no ticket no entry." strike two. By this time I'm more than frazzled, digging in my bag looking for something I know isn't there, shaking a bit uncontrollably. I try to compose and attempt to ask what I'm supposed to do, but emotions take over and I break down. We can't be stranded here; there's no lodging, no transportation, we were literally in the middle on nowhere! Shit. Again, attempting to speak in between crys, I plead with the officer, now in English, hoping he'll take pity on me. I start getting money out. Maybe he'll see that I have money and he'll let me in. However trying to bribe your way in is useless when you only have enough cash to cover the cost of the Visa. strike three.

Without going into more detail we did finally make it into Bolivia, via a lot of tears, and somehow sympathy from an unamused immigrations officer... and we were welcomed into the country with the worst case of travelers diarrhea we have ever had.  

Rainbow Mountain, Peru- A Walk into the Unknown

Take this tour with FlashpackerConnect - Rainbow Mountain "Vinicunca" 

We traveled throughout Peru for a full month. Longer than we expected with our limited time in South America, but not nearly enough to cover everything. We explored the city of Lima, the mountains in Huaraz, the area of Cusco, and the Sacred Valley of Machu Picchu. We spent nearly half that time trekking in the Andes mountains and exploring the vast landscape. Our most recent trek was the Ausangate Trek. Traditionally done in 5 days circumnavigating the massive Ausangate Peak, a sacred mountain for locals as it is the largest in the area.

After reading bits and pieces of this trek on line, I stumbled upon a picture of what I can only describe as a rainbow in the mountain. This soon became an obsession for me to find out where the mountain was and how we could get there. Knowing that it was close-ish to the trek we were planning, but not able to find any information online we were at a loss. We were so close, we just had to go see this mountain. We went in to guide shops, scanned social media, and still came up empty handed. Now with one day before we were to take off, we stumbled upon a distorted map of an old trail. Having somewhat of an idea where the mountain was we made some notes on the map and took off.

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Rainbow Mountain

Every adventure seeker dreams of an undiscovered land. A place that is off the beaten track, where you get away from it all, but is there such a place anymore?

Vinicunca Mountain (Rainbow Mountain) in Peru is one of these places where travelers have yet to discover. A secret that has been kept so well there is no information about it.

The journey will take you minimum 6 days to complete. A high altitude adventure that will keep you begging for oxygen as you strut above a constant 14,000 feet. You cross 5 passes ranging between 15,000 and 17,000 feet. You pass thousands of roaming alpaca and llama. You walk through beautifully diverse landscape that changes daily from snow capped peaks, to neon red desert mountains, to marshy pampas. The real reward however is when you arrive at the painted hills hidden deep in the Andes. Resembling a rainbow, this mountain will require extreme route finding, harsh camping conditions, and a strong determination, but it will not leave you disappointed.

Want more? You are rewarded on the first day and last with a relaxing soak in natural hot springs and the best part is you will be on a trail that gets very few visitors each year. This is a destination not to be missed for any adventure seeker.
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The Journey:

The start of the trek we were instantly greeted by herds of alpaca and llama, starting around noon we only hiked a few hours before the clouds came with uninvited rain and we set up camp for the night. Content that we were stationed right next to a hot springs we waited out the rain and enjoyed some coca tea to stay warm before enjoying a nice long soak to prepare our muscles for the extreme days ahead.

Day 2 we prepared our less than desirable Peruvian oatmeal. Everyone always says, "when you're on the trail it really doesn't matter what you're eating as long as you have food" well in this instance, that's not the case, and unfortunatley we brought two large bags of it... our only morning substance for the next 5 days. We fueled our bodies out of shear necessity and took off to conquer our first pass of the journey. We continued on for the next few hours with Ausangate mountain in full view, passing deep blue lakes, and transferring into a desert-like landscape.

Day 3 was "The day" the day we were to find the rainbow. Preparing for a difficult day ahead, (and high hopes of finding what we were looking for) we were up early, fixed our oats and took off a few hours earlier than usual. First thing ahead of us was a steep climb up a daunting 16,000 foot pass, over 1500 feet of elevation gain in less than a half a mile. Steadily, we make our way up taking frequent breaks to marvel at the snow capped peaks behind us while chunks of ice the size of a car break off and plummet into the glacial tarn below. One step after another we again pass herds of alpaca, and we traipse over lavender colored sand; already it feels as though we are in a different world, but it's only a precursor of what is to come.

At the top of the pass we grab for our map to have another look. Every few minutes it seems we stop to check our map to make sure we are on the right track, and gasp for more oxygen.

We make our way through the lush green valley and begin to climb our second 16,000 foot pass for the day, hoping the whole way that this was the pass we needed. Three hours later we reach the top, and a rush of emotions stream through my veins. We could see it. The mountain we were looking for. It exists, and it was only a few hours with in reach. Not that it was going to be an easy task to get there though, we still had many miles and a deep valley in standing in our way.

We made our way down the side of the mountain covered in dark red sand and scree, half way sliding to a small lake. We relaxed, reloaded with water, and chomped down some peanut butter tortillas. It was still before noon, and very few clouds in the sky. On an adrenaline high, from our discovery, we took off again for the ultimate view of the rainbow.

When we finally arrived at Vinicunca I was again overwhelmed with emotions. It was better than I could have ever imagined and it was just us and the Andes. Surrounded by a splattering of neon reds, electric yellows, and soft blues. It was as though it shouldn't exist in reality - as if Dr. Seuss created it himself. We sat there in silence awed by the beauty that exists in this world, and stunned that so few travelers have ever been here.

Rainbow Mountain "Vinicunca"

Rainbow Mountain "Vinicunca"

The rest of the trek was nothing short of a backpackers dream. We crossed four more passes, slept under a sky crowded by stars and colors from the milky way, swam in some beautiful (yet cold) lagoons, and didn't see a another trekker until the last day where we again rested our muscles in a natural hot springs.
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Brandon and I have seen some amazing things and been on a lot of adventures, but this is one that we will never forget. A journey to the secret, painted hills of the Andes mountains where we walked into the unknown. What will your next adventure be?

NOTE: If you would like to take a day trip to the Rainbow Mountain or a multi day trek on the Ausangate visit www.flashpackerconnect.com for more information or email flashpackerconnect@gmail.com to book a tour. You are now able to get to this amazing place on a day trip from Cusco, Peru. Have fun!

Do What Makes You Happy

After a long sabbatical away from writing Brandon and I have finally sat down to relax again and reflect on our travels. Asia was an incredible adventure with wonderful food, people, scenery, and culture but it was time to move on. We learned alot about ourselves and what is most important. We have achieved already what we set out to do in the first place, and that was to discover a new way of thinking, explore how others live, and stretch our bodies both physically and mentally.

When we first set out on our adventure, I knew that traveling wouldn't always be like a vacation, however I never realized how unglamorous parts of it would be. We have trekked through monsoons, spent hours searching for a bed in 100 degree heat, with everything we own on our backs, endured 15 hour bus rides, and have gone to bed hungry. However, the negatives of traveling don't even begin to compare to the amazing memories we have made.

I often get told "you're lucky to be able to travel like this" and I can't help but think to myself that luck has nothing to do with it. Brandon and I decided after months and months of happy hours out in Seattle (the best way to come up with a plan), that we would make this dream a reality. and while I don't need to go into the details again, we made it happen. We planned. We saved. We worked.

I encourage you to step out of your comfort zone and try a new path, see what happens. Life is full of surprises. For Brandon and I, we like the adventure of change, of the unknown. Predictability is nice, comfortable, and easy, but if you really think about what your dreams are, what you've always wanted to do, is it what you're doing now? If it is, I commend you, but if it's not, take that leap of faith and see what happens, the unknown is not as bad as you may think.

Coffee from Around the World

It was here in Vietnam when we realized that the important ritual of drinking coffee is not just something we do in the US. To the locals here, they have a meticulous process to make the perfect cup of joe depending on what you order.

Gaffe Sua Da- Ice Coffee with Milk
We ordered our first round in Ho Chi Min via hand motions, and attempting to pronounce the word "gafee" the way the guide book explained. The lady behind her stand said something and we nodded yes, as if we knew what she said, hoping we would end up with a delicious cup of strong coffee. Two tall tumblers were placed in front of us with an aluminum filter of some sort resting on top, and what looked like a thick milky substance at the bottom of the glass. Slowly we watched drip by drip of our coffee work its way to the bottom of the tumbler, wondering when we were ever going to drink this coffee. Suddenly two more glasses were put in front of us, both filled with ice and a tall spoon. We look at each other, then at the lady serving us, she motioned for us to stir the maybe one inch of coffee that ended up in the bottom of our glass, and the thick milky substance together. We do as told for about a minute to ensure everything is mixed well, she then gestureed again for us to pour it over the ice, which now has a bit of water at the bottom as well. Again, we do as told, and mix again. Finally its time to try. I take a small sip from the blue straw that was given to me and am immediately punched with a jolt of caffeine mixed with sweet condensed milk. A Vietnamese favorite that soon became an addiction for us - and a new obsession to try coffee from around the world.

Egg Coffee
About a week later in Hanoi we did a little more research on coffee in Vietnam and discovered the egg coffee. A magnificant concoction of egg yolks, sugar, espresso and who knows what else. We order two cups at the first cafe we could find who served it and anxiously wait nearly 10 minutes while the owner whips up our drink. We give it a small stir and taste the creamy top layer that is sweet mixed with the slight taste of espresso, something that I have been craving for dessert ever since. The small cup is just the right balance between sweet dessert-like layer on top and the delicious shot of espresso on the bottom, that I saver every sip whilst sitting on small blue plastic stools and people watch.

Looking back over our travels there has been so many different kinds of coffee that we have enjoyed. I'm not talking about beans from around the world, but the style in while locals enjoy their coffee. For instance, in the US, when I think of coffee, I think drip coffee in a small mug that is continually filled up while I enjoy breakfast at a diner. I also think of a delicious latte with maybe a bit of sugar in it. Yes, there are endless choices of gourmet coffee, but I would stand to guess that filtered coffee is the number one consumed style of coffee in the US. Some like it with cream and sugar, others like it black.

As we continue our travels, I am anxious to see how the rest of the world takes their coffee.

When traveling through Indonesia there are also a few common styles of coffee that locals gulp down. Bali koppe, bla