Phi Phi Islands
14th-16th June 2015
Continuing our way through the Southern Part of Thailand our next stop (prior to Khao Sok) was Koh Phi Phi, a very popular tourist destination particularly for young 20 somethings looking to party. Not knowing this Brandon and I picked a centrally located guest house smack dab in party central. We explored the island by foot and scheduled a dive for the next day. Unfortunately, this time of year is the rainy season on the Andaman Sea side (Thailand's West coast) and our dive was cancelled. Instead we spent the morning writing and looking a pictures, and enjoying our down time. That evening when the rain subsided we hiked to a nice view point overlooking the island. This short hike through a quietly secluded jungle was the best part of our visit. Along the way we came across a beautiful snorkeling beach with an array of sea life and finally got away from the droves of people.
Back near the guesthouse we strolled around a bit, ate subpar Westernized food, and went to sleep as the thump thump of the loud base next door streamed through every single vein in our bodies. This is probably the most crowded destination we had been to thus far which ultimatly made us change our itinerary (for the better) to avoid other touristy areas including Pucket and the southern island of Phi Phi with the famous Maya Beach on it. There's nothing like an overcrowed beach of tourists to ruin an experience, and in my opinion, no reason to waste the money.
We didn't take many pictures of our few days on Phi Phi, and I think the loud music playing 100% of the time made me go a bit crazy. It's a very small island and because of the influx of tourism, there is trash nearly everywhere and few prestine beaches. Needless to say we are not fond of the tourist destinations and headed out shortly after we arrived.
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
It's A Jungle Out There- Khao Sok National Park
Floating Lake Bungalows
16th-18th June 2015
Where to begin. Brandon of course loves fishing and has been dragging his fly rod around from country to country just waiting to get the line wet. There really hasn't been much opportunity, but he takes his rod everywhere he goes, just in case.
Through some work connections Brandon was introduced to Tatrawee via email. They exchanged a few messages and worked out a trip chasing Thailand's Mahseer, a beautiful golden fish with light blue iridescent fins. Something Brandon has been wanting to fish for since we arrived in Thailand. Finally, just before our Thai visa ran out we were able to go, and the trip was... interesting, to say the least.
Day 1:
We arrived at the pier and met up with Tatrawee and friends, the group we'd be fishing with for the next few days. We loaded our bags into a longtail boat and took off on the hour long journey up the lake to where we would be staying. Winding through huge limestone islands covered in thick lush jungle, we sped along to our secluded cabana, hoping to stay dry as the clouds rolled in and sprinkles were inevitable. The ride alone was beautiful enough to justify the trip. Tatrawee explained to us that the rivers we would be fishing are so difficult to get to that they rarely get fished. I wasn't sure if that meant the fishing would be easier or more difficult as a result.
Eventually we made it to our "lodge" which at first glance is very similar to a rustic fishing cabin half way falling apart. We walk along the broken floating planks in the lake to our bamboo bungalow paying close attention to keep our balance with our giant backpacks. It wouldn't be a great way to start off the trip by sinking to the bottom of the lake with my bag strapped to me. I have found through multiple instances that I am not as graceful as I once was.
The host lead us to one of the far end floating bungalow. This one was lovely. It was newly built with two open air windows on either side propped open by a bamboo twig, a simple mattress on the floor with a mosquito net around it, although a mosquito was few and far between, and just enough room on the porch to secure our hammock and enjoy the scenery.
The first afternoon of fishing was amazing. We walked along the river bank, wet wading in my Chacos and fishing up the river. The temperature outside was perfect and the water we were walking through was warm and flowing slowly. The fishing was great for the few hours we had to fish and one by one Brandon and I reeled in colorful Mahseers that put up a strong fight. We were told the best fishing was further in, and the next day we would hike in for about 30 minutes before fishing. Both of us excited to catch "the big one" of course we couldn't wait.
Day 2:
Back in the longtail we go around 8am with all our gear and travel about 20 minutes to the river where to begin hiking in. It all seemed easy enough. I envisioned a well-worn trail and a mildly strenuous hike to get to our spot, the usual. We were doing a full day of fishing in the jungle so I knew it wouldn’t be a cake walk, but I didn’t anticipate that the trek alone would be much of a challenge, especially since the focus was on fishing.
I was wrong.
Very wrong.
This hike was stressful, challenging, leech-infested, and exhilarating all at the same time.
Tripping over tree roots, and slipping on wet mud we trek through the wild dense jungle as our guides chop down small bamboo trees and thick vines to clear somewhat of a path for us. We see fresh elephant tracks by the dozens, and even a king cobra, which hold the rank as the largest venomous snake in the world. Further and further into the jungle we go, crossing the river multiple times as I sink into mud up to my thighs and water up to my chest. It hadn't started raining yet, but I was already soaked.
We finally make it to our fishing spot and get maybe an hour or two of fishing in before the monsoon came. We continue to fish hoping the rain will subside and fish will start eating again. Harder it poured and soon the river was muddied up. The once fishable river became so murky it was now nearly impossible. We break for lunch and I scarf down my warm fried rice in the rain.
The rain never did stop and we ended heading back the way we came through the forest where the blood sucking leeches waited on the low jungle leaves for me to pass by and hitch a ride for a free meal. All in all Brandon and I had about 15 leeches each that we continually pulled off of us throughout the day, many of them leaving an open wound that left blood streaming down our legs. Thankfully these little guys are harmless and somewhat easy to pull off, but what I did learn is high pitch screaming doesn't seem to affect them much.
Back at the lodge I soaped up from head to toe and jumped in the warm lake for a bath.
Day 3:
The last day of fishing I decided to stay back at the bungalow, lay in my hammock and write. While I may have made the trip sound miserable, I did actually have a lot of fun. Though tiring, this fishing excursion left me with a sense of accomplishment and rawness. The lack of people and nonexistent trail made me feel as though I had discovered a hidden gem that had been untouched by man. It left me to wonder what else is out there. It is because of this that Brandon and I travel. We travel for the sense of wonderment, adventure, and exploration.
16th-18th June 2015
Where to begin. Brandon of course loves fishing and has been dragging his fly rod around from country to country just waiting to get the line wet. There really hasn't been much opportunity, but he takes his rod everywhere he goes, just in case.
Through some work connections Brandon was introduced to Tatrawee via email. They exchanged a few messages and worked out a trip chasing Thailand's Mahseer, a beautiful golden fish with light blue iridescent fins. Something Brandon has been wanting to fish for since we arrived in Thailand. Finally, just before our Thai visa ran out we were able to go, and the trip was... interesting, to say the least.
Day 1:
We arrived at the pier and met up with Tatrawee and friends, the group we'd be fishing with for the next few days. We loaded our bags into a longtail boat and took off on the hour long journey up the lake to where we would be staying. Winding through huge limestone islands covered in thick lush jungle, we sped along to our secluded cabana, hoping to stay dry as the clouds rolled in and sprinkles were inevitable. The ride alone was beautiful enough to justify the trip. Tatrawee explained to us that the rivers we would be fishing are so difficult to get to that they rarely get fished. I wasn't sure if that meant the fishing would be easier or more difficult as a result.
Eventually we made it to our "lodge" which at first glance is very similar to a rustic fishing cabin half way falling apart. We walk along the broken floating planks in the lake to our bamboo bungalow paying close attention to keep our balance with our giant backpacks. It wouldn't be a great way to start off the trip by sinking to the bottom of the lake with my bag strapped to me. I have found through multiple instances that I am not as graceful as I once was.
The host lead us to one of the far end floating bungalow. This one was lovely. It was newly built with two open air windows on either side propped open by a bamboo twig, a simple mattress on the floor with a mosquito net around it, although a mosquito was few and far between, and just enough room on the porch to secure our hammock and enjoy the scenery.
The first afternoon of fishing was amazing. We walked along the river bank, wet wading in my Chacos and fishing up the river. The temperature outside was perfect and the water we were walking through was warm and flowing slowly. The fishing was great for the few hours we had to fish and one by one Brandon and I reeled in colorful Mahseers that put up a strong fight. We were told the best fishing was further in, and the next day we would hike in for about 30 minutes before fishing. Both of us excited to catch "the big one" of course we couldn't wait.
Day 2:
Back in the longtail we go around 8am with all our gear and travel about 20 minutes to the river where to begin hiking in. It all seemed easy enough. I envisioned a well-worn trail and a mildly strenuous hike to get to our spot, the usual. We were doing a full day of fishing in the jungle so I knew it wouldn’t be a cake walk, but I didn’t anticipate that the trek alone would be much of a challenge, especially since the focus was on fishing.
I was wrong.
Very wrong.
This hike was stressful, challenging, leech-infested, and exhilarating all at the same time.
Tripping over tree roots, and slipping on wet mud we trek through the wild dense jungle as our guides chop down small bamboo trees and thick vines to clear somewhat of a path for us. We see fresh elephant tracks by the dozens, and even a king cobra, which hold the rank as the largest venomous snake in the world. Further and further into the jungle we go, crossing the river multiple times as I sink into mud up to my thighs and water up to my chest. It hadn't started raining yet, but I was already soaked.
We finally make it to our fishing spot and get maybe an hour or two of fishing in before the monsoon came. We continue to fish hoping the rain will subside and fish will start eating again. Harder it poured and soon the river was muddied up. The once fishable river became so murky it was now nearly impossible. We break for lunch and I scarf down my warm fried rice in the rain.
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| River crossing |
Back at the lodge I soaped up from head to toe and jumped in the warm lake for a bath.
Day 3:
The last day of fishing I decided to stay back at the bungalow, lay in my hammock and write. While I may have made the trip sound miserable, I did actually have a lot of fun. Though tiring, this fishing excursion left me with a sense of accomplishment and rawness. The lack of people and nonexistent trail made me feel as though I had discovered a hidden gem that had been untouched by man. It left me to wonder what else is out there. It is because of this that Brandon and I travel. We travel for the sense of wonderment, adventure, and exploration.
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| The crew soaking up the last of it. (Rangers with proper weapons on the ends) |
Sunday, June 21, 2015
Krabi, Thailand
Tonsai Beach, Railey Island, Krabi
12th-14th June 2015
Highlights
Brandon and I have found a new love for kayaking and as you can see from our pictures we spend a lot of time exploring via kayak. It's a cheap and easy way to get around the surrounding areas, we can set our own pace, and it's nice being able to get to some secluded islands that tours don't go to. Our time on Krabi was spent entirely in a kayak. The day we arrived we headed out for a few hours, paddled around some easily accessible islands, and got some tips from the locals on where to head the next day. We saw a ton of jellyfish, the biggest I've ever seen, bright pink and blue, some white, and for the most part harmless. We swam a little and paddled to a beach that had just appeared because the tide was low, and relaxed. One of these days we're going to take our hammock with us and camp out on the beach.
The next day we woke up early and headed out to the national park that was about 8 kilometers away. It took us an hour to get to the first island. Arms exhausted, we arrive at the most beautiful beach either of us had ever seen.
More Island exploring.....
Soft, white sand, the bluest water you could imagine, and not a soul in sight, this was heaven. We spent a good while soaking up the views before we got back in our kayak to explore some more. We paddled around the islands poking one jellyfish after another, and stumbled across a huge overhang with a rope ladder attached to it. Of course we each tried our hand at climbing the vertical limestone as high as we could until we lost grip or just couldn't go any higher falling into the water below. We found three other sights like this, all varying with difficulty. Brandon and I love to climb, but neither of us are very good. Knowing the water is below adds an element of confidence that makes it fun to lunge for a hand hold that's just barely out of reach. The adrenaline streams through your body as you stretch to get the hold but wet fingers makes it hard to grip sending you 25 feet down.
Railey is famous for its deep water solo climbing, and a mecca for climbing in general. Tonsai, the least developed beach on Railey and the area with the best climbing, includes three or four "resorts" that all have open air cabanas for climbers and/ or visitors to stay at. Gear can be rented on the island to accommodate a safe climb or you can head out to the deep water climbing where gear is not required. If you're a climber or an adventurist in general, this is a destination you don't want to miss! At the end of the day relax at the bar and enjoy a beer while fellow climbers solo the limestone in front of you.
12th-14th June 2015
Highlights
- Deep water solo climbing
- Kayaking to the National Park
- Playing with jellyfish
- White sand beaches and turquoise water
Brandon and I have found a new love for kayaking and as you can see from our pictures we spend a lot of time exploring via kayak. It's a cheap and easy way to get around the surrounding areas, we can set our own pace, and it's nice being able to get to some secluded islands that tours don't go to. Our time on Krabi was spent entirely in a kayak. The day we arrived we headed out for a few hours, paddled around some easily accessible islands, and got some tips from the locals on where to head the next day. We saw a ton of jellyfish, the biggest I've ever seen, bright pink and blue, some white, and for the most part harmless. We swam a little and paddled to a beach that had just appeared because the tide was low, and relaxed. One of these days we're going to take our hammock with us and camp out on the beach.
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| Jungle Bungalows, Tonsai beach, Krabi |
The next day we woke up early and headed out to the national park that was about 8 kilometers away. It took us an hour to get to the first island. Arms exhausted, we arrive at the most beautiful beach either of us had ever seen.
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| Poda Island |
More Island exploring.....
Soft, white sand, the bluest water you could imagine, and not a soul in sight, this was heaven. We spent a good while soaking up the views before we got back in our kayak to explore some more. We paddled around the islands poking one jellyfish after another, and stumbled across a huge overhang with a rope ladder attached to it. Of course we each tried our hand at climbing the vertical limestone as high as we could until we lost grip or just couldn't go any higher falling into the water below. We found three other sights like this, all varying with difficulty. Brandon and I love to climb, but neither of us are very good. Knowing the water is below adds an element of confidence that makes it fun to lunge for a hand hold that's just barely out of reach. The adrenaline streams through your body as you stretch to get the hold but wet fingers makes it hard to grip sending you 25 feet down.
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Amazing, free climbing off Poda |
Wednesday, June 17, 2015
The Day I Paid for Torture
13th June, 2015
Mostly everything is cheap here in Thailand, but Brandon and I haven't indulged too much in any extras. We eat cheaply, stay in simple accommodations, and spend our days snorkeling, swimming, hiking and just exploring. We typically get up around 6:00, make our Nescafe, and walk around the beach until the town starts stirring and everyone begins waking up. We find a nice, simple place for breakfast where we typically choose rice soup, or porridge - both traditional Thai breakfasts - and I write for a bit, while Brandon works on pictures.
Morning is my favorite part of the day - everything smells so fresh and I love having the village to ourselves, even if it is just for a bit. Life is simple, we don't pay much attention to the time anymore, we listen to our bodies and eat when we're hungry, go to bed when we're tired. Our entire day is typically consumed with exploring. I remember thinking before we left to travel, what will we do all day.. but there is so much to do and see we are never bored. In fact it's just the opposite, we have to force ourselves to rest every once in a while because our bodies are so soar and tired from running around all the time.
One thing that Brandon and I finally indulged in was a Thai massage. You can't hardly walk 5 minutes in any town without getting asked if you would like a massage. The Thais are famous for their pressure point massage and relaxation techniques and we needed to see what all the hype was about. After a long day kayaking we stopped into a massage parlor where we asked for a Thai massage. One full hour for $5. I knew that the massage may not be completely enjoyable during parts, as I've heard a Thai massage is more like a deep tissue, but it's something that has to be done when in Thailand.
My masseuse, who speaks little to no English, tells me through hand gestures to lay face down on a mat. I oblige and Brandon does the same, anxiously awaiting our massage. The instant my masseuse put her hands on me I knew I was in for it. One full hour of pain, torture actually. She stretched me, bent me, pulled me and popped me. The pressure, which sometimes included her entire body weight was for the most part unbearable. I said "ouch" about 15 minutes in which I think made her massage me harder. The entire hour I actually tried as hard as I could to fall asleep or at least think about something else, anything else other than the present. She rolled me over on my back and the pain continued as my body was stretched in ways only a small child should bend. At one point she was under me with her feet pressed against my back holding me up towards the sky as my body fell into a painful backbend. Exactly one hour later, it was over. I waddled outside to a sitting area and was given hot tea and biscuits, I guess my consolation prize for enduring the massage.
Mostly everything is cheap here in Thailand, but Brandon and I haven't indulged too much in any extras. We eat cheaply, stay in simple accommodations, and spend our days snorkeling, swimming, hiking and just exploring. We typically get up around 6:00, make our Nescafe, and walk around the beach until the town starts stirring and everyone begins waking up. We find a nice, simple place for breakfast where we typically choose rice soup, or porridge - both traditional Thai breakfasts - and I write for a bit, while Brandon works on pictures.
Morning is my favorite part of the day - everything smells so fresh and I love having the village to ourselves, even if it is just for a bit. Life is simple, we don't pay much attention to the time anymore, we listen to our bodies and eat when we're hungry, go to bed when we're tired. Our entire day is typically consumed with exploring. I remember thinking before we left to travel, what will we do all day.. but there is so much to do and see we are never bored. In fact it's just the opposite, we have to force ourselves to rest every once in a while because our bodies are so soar and tired from running around all the time.
One thing that Brandon and I finally indulged in was a Thai massage. You can't hardly walk 5 minutes in any town without getting asked if you would like a massage. The Thais are famous for their pressure point massage and relaxation techniques and we needed to see what all the hype was about. After a long day kayaking we stopped into a massage parlor where we asked for a Thai massage. One full hour for $5. I knew that the massage may not be completely enjoyable during parts, as I've heard a Thai massage is more like a deep tissue, but it's something that has to be done when in Thailand.
My masseuse, who speaks little to no English, tells me through hand gestures to lay face down on a mat. I oblige and Brandon does the same, anxiously awaiting our massage. The instant my masseuse put her hands on me I knew I was in for it. One full hour of pain, torture actually. She stretched me, bent me, pulled me and popped me. The pressure, which sometimes included her entire body weight was for the most part unbearable. I said "ouch" about 15 minutes in which I think made her massage me harder. The entire hour I actually tried as hard as I could to fall asleep or at least think about something else, anything else other than the present. She rolled me over on my back and the pain continued as my body was stretched in ways only a small child should bend. At one point she was under me with her feet pressed against my back holding me up towards the sky as my body fell into a painful backbend. Exactly one hour later, it was over. I waddled outside to a sitting area and was given hot tea and biscuits, I guess my consolation prize for enduring the massage.
Sunday, June 14, 2015
A Taste of Paradise
Mo Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park
Live aboard boat tour
Highlights:
- Seeing the Southern Cross (Check that one off the bucketlist!)
- Home cooked Thai food for every meal
- Kayaking through sea caves with black tip sharks
- Sleeping under the stars and being rocked to sleep by the boat
- Swimming to a nearby beach and hiking up to a spectacular view
- Being away from the hustle and bustle
There's a national park about 4 hours off the coast of Koh Tao that is a must see if you're ever in the vicinity. We heard about this from our dive instructor but didn't want to just zip around on a speed boat with hoards of other tourists. The best way to explore this 42 island national park is to live on a boat for a few days. This will allow you to see things at a much slower pace and avoid tourist areas during the peak times. We went on a trip with Unseen Tours that lasted for 3 days and two nights. It was an experience we'll never forget; taking kayaks around secluded islands, hiking through jungles, reading and relaxing in a hammock. We made new friends from all over the world, and it seemed effortless to connect with everyone as we all had one thing in common- the passion for adventure.
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| Entering paradise |
As I sit here trying to recount the days on the boat, it seems nearly impossible for me to explain. On the surface our days were very much the same. We spent our free time kayaking around and exploring. We would get up early and watch the sunrise on the roof of the boat with a cup of coffee in hand, play in the water until meals were ready, talk all day or just sit together and enjoy the beauty around us, until the day came to a close and we would watch the sun drop back into the ocean. It doesn't seem like much but there is something special about being around such beauty with the person you care about most.
Thankfully Brandon has become extremely talented with a lense these past few months. I've decided to let his pictures do the talking for this post.
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| Kayaks in tow |
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Swim and hike to viewpoint. Our boat towing kayaks in the distance |
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| Saltwater lagoon, in the center of the island |
One experience, however was unable to be captured on camera but should be noted. There is a natural phenomenon that occurs in certain parts of the world when conditions are just right called bioluminescent phytoplankton, or glowing plankton. I had heard of this before but never really thought twice about it.
As night fell on our last day we had enjoyed our final sunset on the boat and maybe two or three rum and pineapple drinks. I headed to the bathroom, (I know but it's an important part of the story) went #1 and flushed. Now, a boat toilet is a bit different than your state of the art Western toilet. Once you're done there is a bucket of sea water next to you that you scoop up and pour down to expel the waste (I assume this goes straight into the ocean, but that's not important). This is when the "magic" happened. As I poured the water, the toilet lit up as if pixie dust was swirling around cleaning it. I poured more down, I'm not that drunk am I..? It happened again! Green pixies furiously cleaning away. I was so confused and excited, I ran to Brandon to show him this magical toilet. Who knew "flushing" a toilet could be so great! Once we finally realized what was going on (or asked the captain), we jumped in a kayak and paddled around for nearly an hour watching the microscopic plankton sparkle like stars dancing in the water with every move of the oars. Completely silent, we embraced the moment together. A perfect way to end our excursion. If you're ever in the right place at the right time to see this natural phenomenon consider yourself lucky.
Dive Certified!
Highlights:
- Swimming with Triggerfish (watch out they charge!)
- Crystal clear water
- Watching sea annonemies sway with the water
It was our mission in Koh Tao to find the perfect diving school to get certified. With over 60 schools on the island we wanted to do some research and find the best one for us. We spent the morning scoping out the competition before we decided on New Way Diving.
I didn't know I would love diving as much as I do. It opens up so much more opportunity for exploring and the underwater world is just as diverse as the earth above it. I love the adrenaline rush I get when a giant fish swims by, and the excitement I feel when I see something new for the first time. Diving is like going into the unknown, you see the blue ocean beneath you, but until you suit up and jump, you'll never know what's down there.
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Colorful clams |
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| Sea urchans |
It took us a mere three days to get certified. We watched a few videos, took a test (which we never actually got our results back), geared up and got in the water. It's a very strange concept just assuming that you'll be able to figure it out once in the water, but everyone does, I guess. After a few skill drills, we were diving. We had a total of 5 dives for our certification, but of course continued diving after that. People are crazy about diving here and after talking to fellow travelers we have unfortunately (or fortunately!) just added so many places to the bucket list. Lucky for us some of the best diving in the world is in Malaysia and Indonesia, and we're headed that way!
Bucket List Dive Sights
- Sipadan Island, Malaysia
- Komoto National Park, Indonesia
- Great Barrier Reef (Australia)
- Diving with whale sharks
Have you ever been diving? Comment below and help us grow our bucket list!
Saturday, June 13, 2015
Koh Tao
31 May, 2015
Guesthouse:
The best part of traveling is having no agenda. You can change your mind at any point, move on to another location, or stay somewhere you really love. It is here in Koh Tao, that we have learned there is no reason to have an agenda. We quickly fell in love with this island and already have stayed much longer than anticipated.
Diving is the main attraction on the small island. It has a laid back spirit and is splattered with diving schools. After taking a night ferry and landing in Koh Tao around 5:30 am, we decided to bypass the touts offering us a ride to the beach for "only 200 Baht" (about 7 USD). We've discovered that things are typically a lot closer than the taxi drivers let on and try to walk as often as possible. It turns out that Sairee beach was a quick 2 Kilometer walk and we stopped about half way at the only restaurant open to grab a coffee. We've also discovered that most beach towns here in Thailand don't wake up until around 9 or 10 am requiring us to find a way to get coffee in our bloodstreams before then (as we wake up around 6) - enter Nescafe; the gritty, bitter, instant coffee that we've grown to love only out of shear necessity.
After gulping down a lovely americano, we heave our bags onto our backs and take on the daunting task of finding a guest house. I know it doesn't sound like a hard thing to do, but when you're in a new place, on a budget, and internet-less, it's much harder than it seems. We walk about 25 minutes away from the beach to a hostel listed in our Lonely Planet guide book (first mistake) only to be told they were full. We then mosey around for the next hour or so trying to find something close to the beach and in our newly raised budget after realizing Koh Tao was a bit more expensive than anticipated. No luck with the first 5 or 6 hotels we looked at. They were either too expensive or a little iffy on whether or not they were actually clean. Finally, we stumble upon some cabanas right next to the beach and only go in for a look because we were getting so frustrated. I remember thinking to myself, these are wayyy to nice to be cheap. We look at a room, haggle a bit and end up getting a room cheaper than anywhere else we had looked. The slow season definitely has its perks! We threw our bags down, hit the bed and that's when we see it- something we hadn't seen in ages- a beautiful air conditioning unit on the wall. The bell boy must have made a mistake, or maybe it's broken. Air conditioned units are more than twice the amount we were paying. We step over to the unit, glancing at each other with skepticism but hope at the same time. We flip the switch, and it happens, the lovely hum of an air conditioner starts playing a tune and our room fills with cool, dry air. It was glorious.
By this time it was about 9am and the beach was calling our names. We grab our snorkel gear, rent a kayak and head out into the open water. The snorkeling was phenomenal with crystal clear water, and colorful coral all around us. There were beautiful fish everywhere and because we were ona kayak we were able to get away from the droves of tourists on the main part of the island. Our favorite snorkel spot thus far.
We pulled the kayak up to a nearby island and hiked barefoot to a viewpoint, where we were able to see 360 degrees. It was here, where we fell in love with this island.
The next afternoon we took a trail over to the other side of the island that is only accessible via boat (or foot of course). It was a short one hour hike up the steep side of the volcanic rock, which I assume is what keeps the tourists (and locals) away. We were the only ones on the small secluded beach, and it was again, a perfect day to snorkel and cliff jump. It was such a beautiful beach and hike that we ended up coming back the last day of our stay on Koh Tao.
Guesthouse:
- Sunsetburi: 7 nights
- Big Fish: 2 nights
- Cliff Jumping
- Learning to Motorbike
- Watching the sunset from the beach every night
- Eating curry from the same street cart over and over and learning Thai from the woman cooking
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| Sunset Sairee Beach |
The best part of traveling is having no agenda. You can change your mind at any point, move on to another location, or stay somewhere you really love. It is here in Koh Tao, that we have learned there is no reason to have an agenda. We quickly fell in love with this island and already have stayed much longer than anticipated.
Diving is the main attraction on the small island. It has a laid back spirit and is splattered with diving schools. After taking a night ferry and landing in Koh Tao around 5:30 am, we decided to bypass the touts offering us a ride to the beach for "only 200 Baht" (about 7 USD). We've discovered that things are typically a lot closer than the taxi drivers let on and try to walk as often as possible. It turns out that Sairee beach was a quick 2 Kilometer walk and we stopped about half way at the only restaurant open to grab a coffee. We've also discovered that most beach towns here in Thailand don't wake up until around 9 or 10 am requiring us to find a way to get coffee in our bloodstreams before then (as we wake up around 6) - enter Nescafe; the gritty, bitter, instant coffee that we've grown to love only out of shear necessity.
After gulping down a lovely americano, we heave our bags onto our backs and take on the daunting task of finding a guest house. I know it doesn't sound like a hard thing to do, but when you're in a new place, on a budget, and internet-less, it's much harder than it seems. We walk about 25 minutes away from the beach to a hostel listed in our Lonely Planet guide book (first mistake) only to be told they were full. We then mosey around for the next hour or so trying to find something close to the beach and in our newly raised budget after realizing Koh Tao was a bit more expensive than anticipated. No luck with the first 5 or 6 hotels we looked at. They were either too expensive or a little iffy on whether or not they were actually clean. Finally, we stumble upon some cabanas right next to the beach and only go in for a look because we were getting so frustrated. I remember thinking to myself, these are wayyy to nice to be cheap. We look at a room, haggle a bit and end up getting a room cheaper than anywhere else we had looked. The slow season definitely has its perks! We threw our bags down, hit the bed and that's when we see it- something we hadn't seen in ages- a beautiful air conditioning unit on the wall. The bell boy must have made a mistake, or maybe it's broken. Air conditioned units are more than twice the amount we were paying. We step over to the unit, glancing at each other with skepticism but hope at the same time. We flip the switch, and it happens, the lovely hum of an air conditioner starts playing a tune and our room fills with cool, dry air. It was glorious.
By this time it was about 9am and the beach was calling our names. We grab our snorkel gear, rent a kayak and head out into the open water. The snorkeling was phenomenal with crystal clear water, and colorful coral all around us. There were beautiful fish everywhere and because we were ona kayak we were able to get away from the droves of tourists on the main part of the island. Our favorite snorkel spot thus far.
We pulled the kayak up to a nearby island and hiked barefoot to a viewpoint, where we were able to see 360 degrees. It was here, where we fell in love with this island.
The next afternoon we took a trail over to the other side of the island that is only accessible via boat (or foot of course). It was a short one hour hike up the steep side of the volcanic rock, which I assume is what keeps the tourists (and locals) away. We were the only ones on the small secluded beach, and it was again, a perfect day to snorkel and cliff jump. It was such a beautiful beach and hike that we ended up coming back the last day of our stay on Koh Tao.
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