The Endless Adventures

Saturday, June 13, 2015

Koh Tao

31 May, 2015

Guesthouse:

Sunsetburi: 7 nights
Big Fish: 2 nights

Highlights:

Cliff Jumping
Learning to Motorbike
Watching the sunset from the beach every night
Eating curry from the same street cart over and over and learning Thai from the woman cooking

Sunset Sairee Beach

The best part of traveling is having no agenda. You can change your mind at any point, move on to another location, or stay somewhere you really love. It is here in Koh Tao, that we have learned there is no reason to have an agenda. We quickly fell in love with this island and already have stayed much longer than anticipated.

Diving is the main attraction on the small island. It has a laid back spirit and is splattered with diving schools. After taking a night ferry and landing in Koh Tao around 5:30 am, we decided to bypass the touts offering us a ride to the beach for "only 200 Baht" (about 7 USD). We've discovered that things are typically a lot closer than the taxi drivers let on and try to walk as often as possible. It turns out that Sairee beach was a quick 2 Kilometer walk and we stopped about half way at the only restaurant open to grab a coffee. We've also discovered that most beach towns here in Thailand don't wake up until around 9 or 10 am requiring us to find a way to get coffee in our bloodstreams before then (as we wake up around 6) - enter Nescafe; the gritty, bitter, instant coffee that we've grown to love only out of shear necessity.

After gulping down a lovely americano, we heave our bags onto our backs and take on the daunting task of finding a guest house. I know it doesn't sound like a hard thing to do, but when you're in a new place, on a budget, and internet-less, it's much harder than it seems. We walk about 25 minutes away from the beach to a hostel listed in our Lonely Planet guide book (first mistake) only to be told they were full. We then mosey around for the next hour or so trying to find something close to the beach and in our newly raised budget after realizing Koh Tao was a bit more expensive than anticipated. No luck with the first 5 or 6 hotels we looked at. They were either too expensive or a little iffy on whether or not they were actually clean. Finally, we stumble upon some cabanas right next to the beach and only go in for a look because we were getting so frustrated. I remember thinking to myself, these are wayyy to nice to be cheap. We look at a room, haggle a bit and end up getting a room cheaper than anywhere else we had looked. The slow season definitely has its perks! We threw our bags down, hit the bed and that's when we see it- something we hadn't seen in ages- a beautiful air conditioning unit on the wall. The bell boy must have made a mistake, or maybe it's broken. Air conditioned units are more than twice the amount we were paying. We step over to the unit, glancing at each other with skepticism but hope at the same time. We flip the switch, and it happens, the lovely hum of an air conditioner starts playing a tune and our room fills with cool, dry air. It was glorious.

By this time it was about 9am and the beach was calling our names. We grab our snorkel gear, rent a kayak and head out into the open water. The snorkeling was phenomenal with crystal clear water, and colorful coral all around us. There were beautiful fish everywhere and because we were ona kayak we were able to get away from the droves of tourists on the main part of the island. Our favorite snorkel spot thus far.

We pulled the kayak up to a nearby island and hiked barefoot to a viewpoint, where we were able to see 360 degrees. It was here, where we fell in love with this island.

The next afternoon we took a trail over to the other side of the island that is only accessible via boat (or foot of course). It was a short one hour hike up the steep side of the volcanic rock, which I assume is what keeps the tourists (and locals) away. We were the only ones on the small secluded beach, and it was again, a perfect day to snorkel and cliff jump. It was such a beautiful beach and hike that we ended up coming back the last day of our stay on Koh Tao.

Monday, June 8, 2015

Petchaburi, Thailand

Petchaburi

Guesthouse: JJ Home (2 nights)

Highlights:

Getting a ride from the local school kids on their motorbike to our guesthouse
Riding bikes in the monsoon
Buddha cave

On the surface, Petchaburi is nothing exciting, and it's a town that isn't on the normal "tourist" track. I think that's why we liked it so much. We didn't spend much time here but as soon as we arrived, we were immediately greeted with kindness. As a traveler, you don't always know where your going, so you rely on information from locals. We stopped some kids near a school to ask them where our guest house was. They looked like they were about 15 years old, and kids usually know a little more English than adults. One by one the kids came over trying to help us find where we were going. Speaking Thai, then broken English. No one knew where our guest house was. Finally one of them knew, success! She started to draw a map and said "very far walk, we take you on our bike." Sweet! Unsure how I would fit on this tiny girls motorbike with two bags, I had make it work. I was so happy to not be walking through 90 something degree weather and humidity higher than I'd ever felt.

The main attraction here is Khao Luang Cave. This impressive cave is set in Khao Luang hill which is almost 100 meters high, just North of town. It consists of a number of caverns filled with beautifully illuminated golden Buddha images, and many stalactites hanging from the ceiling formed over the centuries by dripping water. The rays of the sun shining through a hole at the ceiling of the cave illuminates the chambers, giving the Buddha images a mystical appearance. The cave has a serene and quite atmosphere. While Thai tourists snap pictures, Buddhist people pay their respect by burning candles and incense sticks.

It was at this point when we decided that we couldn't take the heat anymore and we hopping on the next train to our first beach location - Koh Tao.

Welcome to Thailand

Upon arriving in Thailand we had done little to no research. If fact, we didn't even know what direction we were going to start traveling. We knew we had 30 days (because of the visa) and there was A LOT to see. We decided that going north would be best to do some more trekking, and get back into the mountains, however after less than a week in the blazing heat, we quickly changed our minds.

Ayutthaya

Guesthouse: The Old Place (2 nights)

Highlights:

Renting a motorbike and touring around all the temples
Trying new foods at the local market- great coffee!
Night Market- trying bugs

View of Ayutthaya ruins - Chaiwatthanaram temple

Ayutthaya is an ancient city full of history. There are ruins and old temples literally everywhere and a river that runs all the way around the city. Our chosen mode of transportation to get here was train. It was about four hours from Bangkok and the ride was magical. We stared out our window in silence as rice paddies, mountains, and wild landscapes floated by. I love that the Thai trains are open air. The fresh smells of the jungle drift in as the locals walk up and down the aisle selling homemade curries wrapped in banana leaves. You don't go hungry on these trains. Brandon and I point as delicious food roams by, we do some sign language to find out the price and swap our Thai coins for a delicious iced tea, curry, or exotic fruit. You never know exactly what your getting, but we haven't been disappointed yet. In Thai culture it is customary to share with others. We first experienced this on the train with kind gestures from all the locals surrounding us; trying local fruits that they had brought with them. At first, I felt a little awkward taking their food, but I then remembered reading somewhere that sharing is their way of accepting you. We were the center of attention and continually thumbed through our phrase book while we attempted to hold a conversation with them.

The train deposited us just outside of Ayuthaya. We ask around for direction, avoiding the touts at the train station who try to squeeze every baht they can out of you, and find out that our guest house is an easy 10 minute walk plus a ferry ride into the city of Ayutthaya. We find our guest house but at this point we are drenched in sweat, and suffocating in our air-condition-less room. For whatever reason we decided to roam around the city during the hottest hours of the day making our way to the less than exciting visitor center. It was over 100 degrees. It goes unsaid that we were both thinking to ourselves the beach would have been a better option.

Ferry to the island

After a few hours of wandering we hit up the night market, try an assortment of foods (and I mean an assortment!) and take some things back to our guesthouse to relax.

The next day we start off early to avoid the heat. We rent a motorbike and hit all the highlights of the city. As we wandered, we noticed, with very few exceptions, that every Buddha statue that was still standing was headless. We were told that they had been destroyed or broken off by looters and sold to private collectors.

Headless Buddhas

Exploring ruins

It was a bit eerie walking among the ruins with every buddha meditating in a decapitated silence.

One Buddha head did survive though, and no one knows for certain how it got there. Over hundreds of years roots from a banyan tree have miraculously grown around the statue leaving it in pristine condition.

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

A Walk in the Jungle

At this point in time we have been on 14 flights in the past two months and are complete experts on getting through airport security, minus the time I tested positive for "explosives" and well, you can guess what happened next. I'm not one to complain about airport security though, and I still don't understand why people make a big deal about going through the scanner or even getting a pat down. I guess some people just need something to complain about. I appreciate every precaution the airport is willing take in order to keep us safe during this who-knows-how-long journey. 14 flights down, many more to go!

Nepal is one of the most beautiful countries I could imagine; from its roaring rivers to the massive peaks in the Himalayas. As I have already told you about our trek, I wanted to give you small glimpse into what else Nepal has to offer... maybe even inspire some of you to go.

Chitwan National Park- The Jungle

Upon arriving from Pokhara via bus (see post "bus rides from hell"), Brandon and I were ready for a rest. We find our guest house and hunker down for the rest of the day as Brandon was down for the count. We do a bit of research, decide what excursions we want to do, and plan out the next few days.

Day 1: Bike ride to the Elephant Breeding Center
Elephant Bath
Bike ride to 10,000 lake

Bike ride to 10,000 lakes

Typically, this time of the year Chitwan is bustling with tourists and touts in every which direction, and it's nearly impossible to find a descent guest house to stay in. However, because of the recent earthquake the tourist dependent village was lifeless. Lucky for us, this meant full attention from the resort staff resulting in us getting a private tour guide for the week. Mohan, who was eager to have clients showed us around our entire first day, including a trip to the elephant breeding center, the token "elephant bath," and a 12 mile bike ride to a beautifully secluded lake.

Locals "drivers" giving their elephants a bath

Time to scrub

Arriving early for the elephant bath we watch in awe while the locals, one by one tromp their elephants into the river. We relax and soak up the scene, and Mohan soon tells us to strap on a life vest and step onto a tall platform. We do as told and wait until we see an elephant stammering towards us. We hop on. Down to the river we go and I squeeze my legs around the elephant's neck with all my might so I don't fall off as we teeter totter into the water.

Instantly, the elephant begins spraying us from every direction. The perfect way to cool off from a sweltering day. We laugh and laugh until our cheeks hurt. I was having the time of my life. I was living in the moment.

Elephant ride/bath

Breeding Center

All of a sudden the elephant that seemed so gentle begins shaking from side to side. I hold on for dear life. Back and forth the elephant slashes violently, as if to throw us off her back. I stay strong, but look over my shoulder and see Brandon mid air. Within an instant I too am tossed into the river. I swim ferociously away from the giant as she stomps--loosing my favorite ring, and Ray Bans in the process. I don't care. I just need to swim as fast possible. By the time I'm nearly half way across the river, I look up and see Brandon. He's standing right next to the elephant as if nothing happened and all the locals are on shore laughing. It turns out "the shaking" is all part of the bath. I laugh it off, a little embarrassed, but so distracted by the adventure. We climb back on and enjoy another bath, cheeks still hurting from laughter.

Day 2: All day Jungle Walk

I've never been in the jungle, but when I think about exploring one, I think of an extremely experienced guide with a gun, and a jeep.

After a delicious breakfast at the resort, Brandon and lather up with sunscreen and head out to meet our guide. Low and behold it's Mohan! Who knew this tiny little man would be the one who would supposedly shield us from any peril that comes our way. We start our walk and Mohan begins to tell us about the flora and fauna of the area. We stroll through through the forest and enjoy the little bit of shade we have for the day while Mohan gives us the "safety" talk.

Now, before we started the walk I knew there was a chance we would see some animals, in fact I wanted to see some, however remember how I told you I thought my guide would have a gun? Well, Mohan had a weapon alright, a thin bamboo stick that he carried over his shoulder. I ask him what we do if we see a rhino. "If we see a rhino, you climb tree. Rhino very dangerous" I'm slightly panicked at this point, but keep my cool as I survey each tree the remaining 7 hours determining in my head whether I could or couldn't climb it.

To sum up our walk, we hiked to a few different look out points, saw a lot of dear, antelopes, peacocks, many different types of birds and a few crocodiles. We even saw the elusive one horned rhino; two of them relaxing in a pond. I was a bit scared at first but then became surprisingly calm as I watched them. Their massive bodies sectioned off as if they are wearing a full suite of armor, and they stand there in the water only 30 yards from us. It was an exhilarating experience and the best way to end a walk in the jungle.

One Horned Rhino

Day 3: Elephant Bath (again)
Elephant safari Ride
Culture show

Day 4: Bus to Kathmandu

Thursday, May 28, 2015

Welcome Back To Reality: My Thoughts on Travel Thus Far

To preface this post, Brandon and I have been traveling now for nearly two months. We started our journey in Nepal, trekking for a month and then traveling around the eastern part of the country for the remainder of the time. Before we left for our adventure, we had planned a trip back to the US to meet Brandon's family in Hawaii, a sort of vacation from a vacation you could say. After the earthquake hit in Nepal, Brandon and I were unsure if we were even going to be able to make it back to the states because of the chaos in Kathmandu. Thankfully, our flight took off as planned and we got out of Nepal just before the second big earthquake hit and we are now relaxing on a beach in Hawaii.
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Stepping off the plane and arriving back on US soil I was filled with mixed emotions. After exploring Nepal I couldn't wait to tell family everything we did, what we saw and experienced, and how incredible our travels have been so far. I was excited to eat fresh veggies again, juicy hamburgers, and any american food I could get my hands on. I was excited to (actually) be able to have English conversations with strangers, whether it be on the bus, in the grocery store or just someone on the street I was asking directions from. I was excited to have a long hot shower and a comfy bed to sleep in. Yet, I was filled with a sense of yearning for the simplicity of our lifestyle back in Nepal; conversing with locals and learning about their culture, wandering around a village trying to get lost, eating cheap food from a street vender, and playing with children on the streets.

Haleakala Crater National Park, Maui. One of the best places in the world to stargaze. You can see why....

Sunrise over the crater

Driving down from sunrise, Haleakala National Park- Maui

I forgot about everything we left behind in the US; the fancy high rise buildings, shopping malls, traffic laws, real hotels... not to mention the cocktail that cost $10-$15. I have to say it's a whole new world to me again, and I'm already looking at everything different.

Napali Coast, Kauai

I immediately noticed the calmness of the vehicles driving in the streets and how beautifully paved roads were. I noticed the amount of luggage everyone was carrying around the airport and I remembered how freeing it felt to not have so much stuff. I felt like a fish out of water with my 42 L pack on my back, a day pack on my front, and dirty clothing that had't been washed in God knows how long. I was exhausted as it took us 5 flights to arrive in Hawaii from Kathmandu. I finally, for the first time felt like a backpacker.

Its nearly impossible to explain how we have changed since we began our travels. One of the most difficult things I have noticed thus far has been trying to convey what we've gone through to everyone. Our most intriguing experiences and eye-opening encounters have come from people whose lifestyles and backgrounds are completely different from our own. They are from the people who have nothing, yet are rich with happiness. We have seen extreme poverty, devastation from a natural disaster, and a country bond themselves together with what little they have left. I feel a sense of humbleness.

Although I can't put this into words, or even begin to explain my most memorable moments, what I can tell you is travel will change you. If you have ever thought about going on an adventure, an adventure to a place you know nothing about, a place where everything is different, book a ticket, pack your bags and go. Whether that trip is for 7 days or 7 months, travel can open your eyes and give you a new perspective; a new perspective that you didn't know you needed perhaps.

To end my post I will leave you with this. While I will keep you as up to date on our travels as possible, I have also decided to, as Walt Whitman wrote, "leave the best untold." I have found that it is nearly impossible to convey my best experiences via text. I have my partner to share it with, a partner who understands exactly what I am feeling, and a partner who shares the same love for travel as I. If you really want to understand, like I said before, go...

Sunday, May 3, 2015

Bus Rides from Hell

03 May, 2015

Don't be fooled by the label "luxury bus" while traveling in a third world country. The only difference between this and the local bus is maybe a few miles an hour, slower mind you, as the local busses are completely out of control the entire time. Brandon and I have gotten the opportunity to try both the local and the luxury and unless you're feeling gutsy, I recommend paying the few extra dollars for the "luxury."

It takes a special kind of tourist to brave one particular bus route in the Himalayas, unless of course you don't know what your getting yourself into in the first place. Fingers crossed you make it out alive.

Arriving at the local bus station you are surrounded by a mass amount of other locals traveling all over the country. Some trying to make it back home to their village, while others are leaving their family in hopes of selling their trade.

As you board the bus with a false sense of security you briefly enjoy the views the Himalayas have to offer until the bus makes a sharp turn towards the valley and you begin driving along side of a shear cliff. Unfortunately, at this point there is no turning back. I sit patiently in my seat as the bus starts going faster and faster - slashing around curves, tearing over potholes, and ripping the dirt road apart. Onward the bus drives as it passes cars, but the terror has just begun. One by one our bus overtakes buses and trucks, stopping at nothing in its path.

I watch out the front window as we pass a truck. Up the mountain we go, not picking up speed as we steadily approach another bus head on. "We're not gonna make it," I think to myself. The bus's horn ferociously honking. It's like a game a chicken, only the game is not in your hands. All eyes are frozen on the front window anxiously awaiting their destiny. With only a moment to spare the truck beside us slams on the breaks and we swerve back to our side and continue our journey as if nothing happened.

We continue violently around the narrow, windy road with no guard rail for hundreds of miles, and I watch the valley below that is nearly three miles straight down. One mistake from the driver and the bus could plummet thousands of feet down the mountain. I say a prayer to myself and squeeze Brandon's hand. All the while he is leaning against the window throwing up in tiny pink plastic bag that was dispersed to all passengers before take off. I try to comfort him but am cut short by the seat in front of me becoming fully reclined in my lap. Another "luxury" of these buses is the seats recline- all the way. I am now nearly immobile, bounding up and down in my seat, Brandon puking next to me, just waiting to off the damn bus.